Jay McInerney: New Orleans cuisine is alive and snapping

Author Jay McInerney in New Orleans Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian Photograph: Chris Granger/guardian.co.uk Nine months after Katrina, many of New Orleans's great restaurants were shuttered. Now, most of the old temples of Creole cuisine are open – and the dining scene is more varied than ever Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian Photograph: Chris Granger/guardian.co.uk August, the flagship of chef John Besh, is often cited as the city's finest restaurant Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian Photograph: Chris Granger/guardian.co.uk Seafood is a key ingredient in Creole cuisine Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian Photograph: Chris Granger/guardian.co.uk Grand dames lunch at the city's grand dame – Galatoire's restaurant, open since 1905 Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian Photograph: Chris Granger/guardian.co.uk A child holds up a crawfish Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian Photograph: Chris Granger/guardian.co.uk Draining the crawfish pot Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian Photograph: Chris Granger/guardian.co.uk At Cochon, the newest restaurant from Louisiana native Donald Link, the menu includes fried alligator, catfish courtboullion and some spectacular drinks Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian Photograph: Chris Granger/guardian.co.uk Chef John Besh serves up gumbo, the classic, though hard to define, Creole dish. It may be based on the African okra dish quingombó, or it may derive from bouillabaisse – or both Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian Photograph: Chris Granger/guardian.co.uk At Herbsaint, says the chef, Donald Link, "every day the menu starts with gumbo" Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian Photograph: Chris Granger/guardian.co.uk Arnaud's restaurant Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian Photograph: Chris Granger/guardian.co.uk Antoine's restaurant Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian Photograph: Chris Granger/guardian.co.uk Our daily bread, New Orleans-style Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian Photograph: Chris Granger/guardian.co.uk A flair for the dramatic Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian Photograph: Chris Granger/guardian.co.uk The meat locker at Herbsaint Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian Photograph: Chris Granger/guardian.co.uk