Wassailing the cider orchard

On a foggy January night a group of cider aficionados gathered in an orchard in Somerset. These weren't fair-weather fans (although most of the snow had melted it was still flipping freezing), these were people who wanted to be sure that this year's harvest is the best ever. And to do so, they were prepared to sing to a tree. The custom of wassailing dates back to pagan times but has enjoyed a minor resurgence in recent years as cider has regained popularity among drinkers. Cidermakers have something to celebrate at last – and with the heritage of their product one of its selling points, holding a wassail makes perfect sense. Not all wassails are the same – in fact, due in part to the amount of cider that seems to be drunk at them, it's probably true to say that no two are ever the same. But there is a loose "order of service" that tends to be followed. A wassail queen (or king) leads a parade to a tree, often the oldest in the orchard. When she gets there, she dips a piece of toast in some mulled cider which is lifted and placed in the boughs of the tree to attract favourable spirits. More mulled cider is then poured round the base of the tree, and evil spirits are scared away with loud noises – sticks banged together, maybe even gunshots. Then the tree is serenaded by the crowd. At the wassail I took part in at Gaymer's orchard in Stewley last week, we sang this song (do join in as you watch the audio slideshow ): Old apple tree we wassail thee And hoping thou will bear For the Lord doth know where we shall be 'Til apples come another year For to bear well and to bloom well So merry let us be Let every man take off his hat And shout to the old apple tree Old apple tree we wassail thee And hoping thou will bear Hat fulls, cap fulls, three bushel bag fulls And a little heap under the stairs It's a strange business and one of those traditions that seem peculiarly English. But I'm sure there are similar customs in other parts of the world. Harvest festivals are an international phenomenon, but what about these kinds of events earlier in the year. Do you know of anything similar?