Seasonal food: parsnips

The root of pastinaca sativa is arguably the king of the roots , although the potato has made wholesale sallies into an empire which began with the ancient Greeks and held Europe in thrall throughout the middle ages. Taking less time to cook that the turnip or carrot, its starchy sweetness marked it out in days of yore as an important staple vegetable used in cakes as well as everyday savoury cooking. The winter root is sweeter than its autumnal cousin as frosts convert more of the starch to sugars, and this is perhaps one reason why the parsnip has all but passed out of use in southern Europe but remains relatively popular in northern areas, and in Britain and Ireland especially. Varieties Tender & True and Gladiator are considered two of the finest varieties for cultivation. How to buy / what to look for Real whoppers tend towards woodiness in the middle which requires cutting out, so aim to buy a maximum length of about 25cm, or around 7cm across the shoulders. Discolouration can indicate freeze-burn or rot, so look for a nice even colour. Nutrition A good source of potassium, folic acid and dietary fibre. Harvested August - March, with baby roots in late summer and bigger, sweeter specimens from the first frost onwards. Storage Wrapped in kitchen paper and a plastic bag they should keep for a fortnight in the vegetable drawer of the fridge. In the freezer, having been peeled, cubed and parboiled for 3-5 mins they'll be good for up to eight months, and pureed for 10 months. If you've grown them yourself, leave them in the ground until you're ready to use them. Basic cooking Peeling is usually recommended for all but the most tiny and tender baby parsnips, but there's a lot of flavour just under the skin so a vigorous scrubbing is the favoured method of some. Dice or slice and boil or steam for 12-15 mins, or roast in a hot oven for 40 minutes in a little oil or butter and a little honey for extra sweetness. Goes with / good in Roast dinners, salt fish, big winter soups and stews, especially with curry spices, and cakes Recipes Hugh Fearnley Whittingstall's parsnip and apple cakes Nigel's roast parsnips with honey and thyme Parsnip and curry soup Gill Meller's parsnip and saltfish cakes Gary Rhodes' parsnip fritters with blue cheese walnut whip