When in... São Paulo, Brazil

Retrô Hair Proof of Baixo Augusta’s rapid gentrification is this swish new hairdressers – all battened-steel mirrors and red-leather couches. “We opened three months ago and it’s going really well – nighttimes are a rush,” says manager Rogério Santos. “It’s a cooler clientele. More fashion people. All kinds.” Rua Augusta 1140 retrohair.com.br Photograph: Dom Phillips Photograph: guardian.co.uk MASP (Museu de Arte de São Paulo) The Tate Modern of São Paulo crouches like a crab on red-tiled legs. An excellent permanent collection varies from Picasso to Bosch to Brazilian painters such as Cândido Portinari. Recent exhibitions have included local graffiti artists Avenida Paulista 1578 masp.art.br Photograph: Dom Phillips Photograph: guardian.co.uk Ibotirama Botecos are the down-home bars found on every Brazilian street. What makes this one cooler than the rest is the mix of carefully dressed-down club kids and older locals who sprawl over tables outside and in, clanking glasses Rua Augusta 1236 Photograph: Dom Phillips Augusta Discos Wonderfully eccentric. Specialises in second-hand records. You’ll also find VHS movies, Brazilian-music LPs, dusty Elvis posters… Rua Augusta 1368 Photograph: Dom Phillips Tapas Club Hot jazz. Flaming soul. Psychedelic swing. Adventurous club nights. The decor is upmarket squat – low couches and 1970s wallpaper Rua Augusta 1246 tapasclub.com.br Photograph: Dom Phillips Photograph: guardian.co.uk