Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall's Fairtrade recipes for winter
It's an enduringly delicious and rewarding, though occasionally challenging, even arduous, adventure to grow, catch, rear or buy locally most of the food that ends up on our kitchen table. Tucking into meals made from ingredients we've nurtured ourselves (or things produced by neighbours, some of whom have become friends) makes them all the more satisfying. But though I live in one of the most bountiful corners of Britain, there are some ingredients that even these green and fertile acres can't provide. Oranges, lemons and clementines, coffee and tea, chocolate and bananas are all verging on being staples, especially during frugal February. And pineapples and mangoes are particularly welcome treats when the prospect of picking my own sun-ripened fruit and veg feels such a very long way off. Right now, we rely on these vibrant exotics to sharpen our palates and brighten our plates. Fortunately, Fairtrade Fortnight starts on Monday and runs until 7 March. This year, they're encouraging us all to join in The Big Swap . The idea is that we tweak our shopping habits and, between us, pick up a million and one Fairtrade products in place of our normal purchases. This will give a better deal to sustainable producers in the developing world. My recipes today make the most of this precious bounty in the form of salads, cakes and puds – all fair enough in several senses (and several senses of senses, come to that). Mango, avocado and steak salad Juicy mangoes and creamy avocados get a punchy, savoury treatment with tender strips of steak and a spicy dressing. Serves four. For the marinade 2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced 1 tbsp oyster sauce (optional) 1 tbsp dry sherry 2 tsp soy sauce 1 tsp light muscovado sugar 1 tsp grated fresh ginger A few twists of black pepper For the salad 350g sirloin or fillet steak 1 large, ripe mango 1 large, ripe avocado (or 2 smaller ones) 2-3 handfuls rocket leaves 1 small bunch coriander, stalks removed For the dressing 2 tbsp Thai fish sauce (or Worcestershire sauce) 1 tbsp sesame oil Juice of 1 lime 1 tbsp soy sauce 1 tsp light muscovado sugar 1 small red chilli, halved, deseeded and finely sliced 1 clove garlic, peeled and finely minced Salt and freshly ground black pepper In a bowl, whisk together all the ingredients for the marinade. Add the steak and use your hands to rub in the marinade until all of the meat is well coated. Leave to marinate for 30 minutes to an hour. While the meat is marinating, prepare the rest of the salad. Peel the mango, cut the flesh away from the stone and cut into long, thin slices. Whisk together the ingredients for the dressing. Heat a ridged griddle pan or frying pan until very hot. Sear the steak for two to four minutes a side, depending on thickness – you want it browned on the outside and still pink in the middle. Leave to rest on a warm plate for five minutes before slicing thinly. Cut the avocado into thin slices. Arrange the rocket on four plates or one large platter. Arrange the steak, mango and avocado on top, trickle on the dressing, together with any juices from the frying pan and/or plate on which the beef has rested, scatter over the coriander and serve immediately. Banana chocolate cake Don't waste bananas that have languished in the fruit bowl a little too long – overripe ones that are a little browned around the edges are perfect in this moist, chocolaty cake. Makes one 22cm cake. 120g unsalted butter, softened, plus extra for greasing 280g self-raising spelt flour, or "light brown" flour (or 280g plain flour plus 3 tsp baking powder) 1 tsp baking powder ½ tsp salt 120g plain chocolate, 70%, coarsely chopped 150g sugar 2 eggs 3 very ripe medium-sized bananas, mashed 140g whole-milk yogurt Heat the oven to 190C/375F/gas mark 5. Butter a 22cm, loose-bottomed round or square cake tin. Line the bottom with baking parchment, and butter the parchment also. Whisk together the flour, baking powder and salt. In a heatproof bowl over a pan of barely simmering water, melt the chocolate until smooth. Set aside to cool while you get on with the rest. Beat the butter and sugar until light and fluffy, then beat in the eggs one at a time until smooth. Stir in the bananas and yogurt until well blended, then fold in the flour mixture – don't overmix. Take a third of the batter and mix it with the chocolate. Spoon the plain batter into the tin, interspersing it with spoonfuls of chocolate batter, then use a knife to swirl together to create a marbled effect. Bake for 30-35 minutes, until a toothpick inserted into the centre comes out smooth. Leave to cool in the tin for 10 minutes then turn out on to a rack to cool completely. Grilled pineapple This easy pud makes an indulgent winter treat. In summer, the marinated pineapple slices are delicious grilled on the barbecue, though in that event you will have to forgo the buttery, caramelly sauce – hopefully, tucking in in the sunshine will make up for this sacrifice. Serves four to six. 1 pineapple 30g light muscovado sugar 30g dark muscovado sugar 60ml dark rum Juice of 1 lime 2 pieces star anise (optional) 50g unsalted butter Ice-cream, to serve Cut the ends off the pineapple and place it on a chopping board on its base. Work around the fruit, cutting off the skin in strips and removing as many eyes as you can. If you miss a few, go back around and cut them out with a small, sharp knife. Cut the pineapple into 2cm slices, then carefully cut out the cores. In a large bowl, mix together the sugars, rum and lime. Bash the star anise roughly (with a pestle and mortar, say), and add to the mixture. Add the pineapple slices, turn over well in the marinade and leave for 40 minutes, turning a couple of more times as it soaks. In a large frying pan, melt the butter over medium-high heat. With a slotted spoon, lift the pineapple from its marinade and sauté for about two and a half minutes a side, until slightly caramelised. Transfer to a warm plate, strain the marinade into the pan and let it bubble for a minute or so until thickened and glossy. Serve with ice-cream and with some sauce strained over the top. • Would you like to join us for our Hugh Cooks Seasonal Produce event on 16 March? Go to rivercottage.net for details.
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