The test... strawberry jam

Fortnum & Mason Strawberry and Champagne £5.25 for 340g, fortnumandmason.com Plenty of whole berries to sink your teeth into, but with lots of good jam for smearing over scones. The pièce de résistance is the s­ubtle, yet unmistakably cool bite from the champagne. Photograph: Graham Turner Forman & Field Strawberry £4.50 for 225g, formanandfield.com This tastes the most “homemade” of the lot. It has a caramel colour and flavour and is delightfully runny. Plus, it comes in a storage jar you will want to reuse. Photograph: Graham Turner Duchy Originals Organic Strawberry £2.29 for 265g, Waitrose Despite having the pretty much standard 65% sugar, Duchy’s ­offering seems somehow sweeter than the rest – it tastes how you’d expect a good jam from the WI stall at a ­country fete to, and contains pleasing lumps of fruit. Photograph: Graham Turner Mrs Bridges Luxury Scottish Strawberry £2.60 for 340g, www.mrsbridges.co.uk Smells of summer picnics with lovely whole berries, and great value for money. Photograph: Graham Turner